Achieve A Flawlessly Executed Beaded-Row End by Paying Attention to These 4 Steps of Your Install Process
Every time I throw out the invite for stylists to reach out with issues they’re having with their extension installs, I get flooded with messages asking to troubleshoot issues that come up with the ends of the rows. Whether it’s that the wefts aren’t secure and are flapping in the wind, or there’s too much drag on the client’s natural hair, sore spots on the scalp, or -gasp- even hair loss, those ends can be a real bummer if they aren’t done properly.
SO I thought I’d break it down this week with a tip for every single step of the installation process to master the painstaking art of flawless row-ends. Ready?
Your sectioning - angle and length. You’ve got to make sure you aren’t making your rows too long (aka, don’t place your anchor beads too far up on top of her head), and that you’re not sectioning your rows at too steep an angle. The higher your anchor beads, and the more angled your row, the more tension is placed on those front ends, which can lead to too much drag on your client’s natural hair which means she may end up with sore spots or even hair loss at those anchor points. Reduce the angle of the row and be mindful of where you’re placing your anchor beads.
Your beading - no matter what method you use, if the section of hair in those anchor beads (the last two beads on each row) is too small, it’s likely that your client will experience sore spots on her scalp or even hair loss. Avoid this by using the Heyday Hand-Tied method to create a wide enough section that will serve as a secure anchor for your stitching and allow enough room for adequate stitching, so that the weight of the wefts can be distributed evenly. One of the greatest things about the Heyday Hand-Tied method is that it can be combined with another method (if you like everything else about what you’re currently using) for those last two anchor beads.
Your weft placement - This is so important and there are a couple things to remember to nail the perfect placement. First of all, I’ve seen stylists stack 6 or more wefts on their rows… which might be fine (even though I rarely stack more than 5), as long as you’re stacking NO MORE THAN TWO wefts at each end! Six wefts on the end of your row means bulk-city, which means they won’t EVER lie flat under your client’s natural hair and let’s be honest, she will likely start picking at them the second they start to loosen - which will be much sooner than if there were only two wefts stacked on each end. Second, make sure you’re lining up the end of your wefts to the end of your anchor SECTION. This ensures that not only will your anchor bead will be covered (aka not popping out!) for the duration of the 6-8 weeks your client will be wearing her extensions until her next tightening, and also that you’ll have plenty of room on the front side of the bead to get 3-5 stitches all the way to the corner of the weft and it will lay flat and securely against your client’s head. Third, take your time when clipping the wefts to secure them for stitching. I recommend using one clip vertically on the top corner of your weft, and one clip horizontally to keep the corner lined up perfectly for stitching. As you continue clipping around the head, use your finger to hold each clip before moving on to the next clip. This way, you won’t accidentally pull the wefts away from the front corner.
Your stitching - All right, listen. You HAVE to stitch all the way to the end of the wefts and I don’t just mean a few stitches. I mean if that 4th or 5th stitch doesn’t make the corner of your weft lie totally flat and smooth (no snags or flappers!) then you might just need a 6th stitch. If you paid close attention to step 2 (your beading), you will have an adequate section size to be able to get enough stitches in front of your bead to make those babies lie flat and smooth. And since we’re talking about beads - does one of your end-issues involve beads popping out? Whether they’re popping out of the top of your row or popping out when your client decides to pull her hair up into a top knot… this issue can be solved by making sure you stitch AROUND the bead. That’s right, when stitching, you’ll slide your needle through the section of hair, between the bead and your client’s scalp and create a stitch that secures the bead to the row. Voila! No more beads popping out - and you’ve created a row that is virtually seamless within your client’s natural hair, with beads that are secure and concealed right against the row!
That’s pretty much it! The issues that come up with row-ends are honestly so common, it’s worth taking your time and paying extra special attention to them. After all, no stylist wants to be responsible for scalp discomfort or irritation and no client wants to have her wefts flapping in the wind!
What’s YOUR number one issue when it comes to the ends of your rows? Leave me a comment below or send me an email at firstname.lastname@example.org and I’d be happy to help you troubleshoot!